Inky ruby. Black and blue fruits, olive, peony, incense and smoky mineral qualities on the deeply perfumed nose. Palate-staining blueberry, cherry liqueur, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors become more energetic with air and take on licorice and exotic spice notes on the back half. Rich but lively as well, finishing with emphatic back-end cut on a strikingly long finish that features fine-grained tannins and lingering floral and spice notes. This is an extremely impressive example of Saint-Joseph from the northern sector of the appellation, and while it should deliver plenty of upfront appeal, it's also balanced to age gracefully. -- Josh Raynolds