Niepoort’s 2005 Vintage Port is a beautifully poised and expressive wine—in the glass, it’s richly coloured and aromatic, with layers of black cherry, plum, violets and spice. There’s a lovely purity to the fruit, balanced by fine tannins and that trademark freshness that keeps everything in check. It’s powerful but not heavy—a vintage port with elegance and structure rather than just muscle.

Now with two decades under its belt, it’s starting to hit a very drinkable stride—though it still has many years of life ahead. A great choice for those who appreciate the more nuanced side of vintage Port, with all the pedigree and complexity you'd expect from Dirk Niepoort. One to savour slowly, preferably in good company.