Botanical name Iris pallida Lam.

Part used: Rhizomes.

Extraction procedure

The rhizomes are harvested after 2–3 years of cultivation, cleaned, and subjected to a drying and maturation process that can last between 3 and 5 years. During this period, the odorless precursors present in the rhizome progressively transform into irones, the molecules responsible for its characteristic aroma. Subsequently, the rhizomes are crushed and extracted with solvents to obtain a solid concrete commercially known as orris butter.

Appearance

Semi-solid to solid mass.

Color

Yellowish-white to pale beige.

Odor

Extremely powerful and persistent aroma. Profile characterized by powdery, woody, violet, and earthy facets, accompanied by fatty, waxy, and slightly green nuances.

Main aromatic constituents

α-Irone

β-Irone

γ-Irone

Iridals

Natural fatty acids

Traces of sesquiterpene ketones

Typical irone content

Varies according to origin and quality.

Standard quality: 5–8% irones

Premium quality: 10–15% irones

Exceptional quality: >15% irones

Solubility

Soluble in ethyl alcohol.

Partially soluble in vegetable oils.

Requires gentle heating to facilitate handling in its pure state.

Physical state at 20 °C

Solid or semi-solid.

Approximate melting point

45–55 °C.

Stability

Excellent oxidative stability when stored in airtight containers, protected from light and heat.

Applications in perfumery

High-value raw material used as an olfactory modifier and fixative in:

Fine perfumery.

Floral accords.

Powdery compositions.

Violet bases.

Leather accords.

Oriental compositions.

Vintage-inspired perfumery.

Olfactory function

Fixative.

Modifier.

Composition rounder.

Creator of volume and olfactory texture.

Usual dosage

0.01–5% of the final formula, depending on the desired profile.

Storage

Store in completely filled containers, protected from moisture, oxygen, and ultraviolet radiation.

Technical observations

The aromatic quality of orris butter mainly depends on the aging time of the rhizome and the concentration of irones obtained after extraction. The prolonged maturation period required for its production makes it one of the most expensive and valued raw materials in natural perfumery.

Olfactory classification

Heart – base note.

CAS Number (orris butter)

90045-89-9

EINECS Number

289-888-0

Olfactory index

Persistence: Very high. Diffusion: Medium. Aromatic complexity: Very high. Perfumistic value: Exceptional.