Very firm reduction masks everything but a curious lactic character. While the medium weight flavors possess both a gorgeous mouthfeel and ample minerality, the lactic character reappears on the compact, serious and built-to-age finale. As the description makes clear, this is awkward. Normally, the presence of secondary fermentation nuances is no particular cause for concern but given that this is already in bottle, it’s impossible to know how it’s going to sort itself out with age. My rating accords the benefit of the doubt but with the caveat of a question mark.