In 2013, Rob perfected a process taught by Ernest Joyce for transferring your tail board cuts onto the pin board, resulting in a perfectly placed starter kerf. Without removing the waste, Ernest would place his dovetail saw in the tail board cuts and mark onto the top of the pin board. It was cumbersome and uncomfortable to hold onto the saw by its teeth, and also increased the risk of misaligning the two boards. I decided to develop a saw-tooth blade that would fit into my trusty Dovetail Marking Knife with a kerf that would match my saw perfectly. This results in a more comfortable transfer procedure with greater control and a lower likelihood to misalign the boards in the process.

Be sure to match the Dovetail Marking Knife that best suits the kerf of your dovetail saw: available in .019", .024", and .026". Handles are engraved with the size of the kerf so there's no confusion if you own multiple. Don't forget to pick up a Shawn Shim Dovetail Offset Tool to ensure proper alignment before transferring tails to pins.

• The knife body is made of cast metal and is surprisingly hefty.

• Two piece body with space to store a second blade.

• The rectangular handle will register in your hand to help you “feel” the blade's position.

• Comes with our .024" (24 Thousandths of an inch) Saw-Tooth Blade.

• Replacement blades available.

Regular Saw-Tooth Blade:

• Designed specifically for use with my dovetail transfer technique.

• Made of the same blade material as my regular Dovetail Saw, .024 inch thick kerf.

• Regular Saw Tooth Blade has 22 TPI so it fits into the kerf easily.
• Allows you to "saw" a starting kerf in the pin-board.